Nestled amidst the serene hills of Cockatoo, a serene town just 50 kilometers southeast of Melbourne, chef Chae Jung-eun has created something extraordinary—a six-seat culinary haven named CHAE. Here, the whispers of traditional Korean fermentation techniques intertwine with Australia’s lush landscapes, resulting in an authentic and deeply personal home-based dining experience.

CHAE, unlike any other ordinary restaurant, is the embodiment of chef Chae’s steadfast commitment to slow, mindful cooking rooted in the traditional fermentation techniques of her Jeolla Province heritage, offering diners a tranquil and intimate encounter with the soulful essence of Korean cuisine through the bold, fermented flavours of her dishes made from jars of her homemade jang (fermented sauces).

Securing a seat at CHAE is nothing short of a stroke of luck. Once overwhelmed by an 8,000-strong waitlist, the six-seat restaurant now uses a monthly lottery system, drawing over 4,000 hopeful diners for its exclusive weekend-only dining experience.

Chef Chae’s work has been met with widespread recognition, including consecutive two hats from The Age Good Food Guide Award since 2022 and a coveted Chef of the Year title for 2025. She has also been celebrated with honors such as the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2021 Trailblazer Award and Gourmet Traveller’s 2022 Best New Talent Award, solidifying her reputation as one of Australia’s most visionary culinary pioneers.

Chae’s story, however, extends beyond her restaurant—a narrative she lovingly captures in her debut cookbook, ‘Chae: Korean Slow Food for a Better Life’. The Chae Cookbook stands out for its focus on traditional jang—Korean condiments that form the foundation of Korean cuisine. The first half of the book delves into recipes that the chef adapted to suit a foreign climate, detailing the traditional fermentation methods and techniques that were reimagined to thrive in a different environment. The second half of the book is thoughtfully divided into four sections, each highlighting seasonal ingredients, which are crafted into dishes, pairing traditional Korean fermentation techniques with native Australian produce discussed in the prior chapters, offering readers a comprehensive guide to incorporating Korean fermented flavors into their meals. The cookbook beautifully captures the rich heritage of Korean culture, showcasing how timeless techniques can be used to create everyday staples like foundational jang condiments, kimchi and an array of seasonal banchans (side dishes).

For chef Chae Jung-eun, cooking is a quiet, unwavering act of storytelling—a way to honor her mother’s teachings, her Jeolla Province roots, embrace Australia’s bounty, and invite others into the heart of Korean cuisine. “My story is a slow and quiet one,” she says. “It’s about tradition and change, connection and absence, and a refusal to let go of impossible dreams.” 

In an email interview from Dec. 4-16, she shared her culinary philosophy and unwavering passion for preserving Korea’s age-old culinary traditions while embracing the unique, natural ingredients of Australia, reflected in her meticulously prepared dishes and every jar of her handcrafted jang at CHAE.

The following are excerpts from the interview.

What inspired you to pursue a culinary career? Please share your journey as a chef so far—transitioning from working in the fine dining scene to bringing authentic Korean food to Australia in an intimate and personalized dining experience.

I grew up in Korea, where the fast-paced, highly competitive culture left me searching for a different path. As a university student majoring in industrial design, I didn’t feel passionate about my studies or see a clear career path ahead. In the early 2000s, many of my friends were traveling overseas to explore foreign lifestyles and broaden their perspectives. Following the trend, I moved to Australia to study something entirely new: pastries. However, I later transitioned to commercial cookery, which led to my first steps into the food business. Over the years, I worked at various restaurants in Melbourne, climbing the ladder in the fine dining scene. While working long hours in busy kitchens, I always carried a dream—a vague but persistent idea of running my own exclusive one-table restaurant, where I could serve a small number of guests and create a truly personal dining experience. This vision lingered in the background until 2019 when a minor ankle injury from commuting on my motor scooter forced me to take time off. The recovery period gave me space to reflect. I questioned whether I was still fit for the physically demanding life of commercial kitchens. That’s when the idea of the one-table restaurant resurfaced with new urgency. I began by hosting intimate dinners in my apartment, leveraging the modest following I had built on social media to secure bookings. Word spread quickly, capturing the attention of the media, and soon I found myself with a growing demand. One thing led to another, and we eventually relocated to a serene home in Melbourne’s eastern hills, where the same one-table dining concept evolved into the restaurant we run today. It’s a realization of my dream—a place where I can share authentic Korean cuisine in a tranquil, intimate setting, creating memorable experiences for our guests.

Could you describe the pivotal moment that led to the creation of CHAE? What inspired shaping the restaurant's unique core concept of one-table dining?

The pivotal moment that led to the creation of CHAE was when I sustained an ankle injury in 2019. The recovery period made me realize that I might no longer be fit for the physically demanding environment of commercial kitchens. It was a turning point, pushing me to reevaluate my career and step out of my comfort zone. I had always dreamt of running my own restaurant, but the commitment and risks of starting a business felt daunting. The injury gave me the time and motivation to explore my long-held dream seriously. The inspiration for CHAE’s one-table dining concept can be traced back to a documentary I watched years ago. It featured an older Asian woman running a one-table restaurant, where she focused solely on cooking and hosting, free from the pressures of conventional restaurant management. That simplicity and purity of purpose resonated deeply with me. While I can’t recall the exact details of the documentary, the concept lingered in the back of my mind for years, and the idea of creating something similarly intimate and personal became the foundation of CHAE.

Could you share the principles and values that guide your approach to running and cooking for CHAE? How has your upbringing in Jeolla Province influenced your understanding and application of traditional Korean cooking techniques to prepare Korean cuisine?

At CHAE, my guiding principles are rooted in creating food that I believe tastes good, is made organically and healthily, and stays true to my cultural background. Growing up, I was fortunate to eat dishes made with traditionally fermented Korean jangs (condiments) crafted organically at home. Those are the flavors I’ve always been accustomed to, and they’ve become my benchmark for how food should taste. I strive to bring that authenticity to everything I serve. My upbringing in Jeolla Province profoundly shaped my approach to Korean cooking. Jeolla is known for its rich culinary heritage, where the proximity to the sea made salted and preserved seafood staples of daily cooking. It was common to see my mother making jangs and rows of onggi (fermentation jars) storing various ferments. I grew up familiar with the fermentation process, often helping my mother make these traditional condiments. This hands-on exposure to Korean culinary traditions came naturally to me and forms the foundation of my cooking. The abundant use of seafood in Jeolla cuisine, paired with the emphasis on fermentation and bold flavors, has significantly influenced how I apply traditional techniques. Whether it's crafting doenjang, gochujang, or kimchi, or creating dishes that highlight regional ingredients, my cooking reflects the essence of Jeolla’s culinary traditions while adapting them to an intimate dining experience at CHAE.

How would you describe the Australian audience’s reception of CHAE and its traditional Korean flavors? What do you think sets CHAE apart from other Korean restaurants, especially in terms of authenticity?

Australia is an incredibly diverse country, where people have a deep respect for and genuine curiosity about other cultures. The reception to CHAE has been overwhelmingly positive, with guests showing both interest in and appreciation for the years of preparation that go into crafting the traditional Korean flavors we serve. Many of my guests are genuinely intrigued by the intricacies of fermentation and are eager to experience authentic Korean cuisine that reflects its rich heritage. What also draws people to CHAE is the unique and intimate dining experience we offer. In addition to the rare culinary preparation, guests often visit for a peaceful escape from their busy lives, seeking a change of scenery and the tranquility that the hills provide. This combination of food and atmosphere creates an experience that’s still uncommon in Australia. What truly sets CHAE apart is our dedication to preparing our own jangs—the fundamental condiments of Korean cuisine. This is a significant investment, especially in a commercial restaurant setting. Fermenting jangs requires importing traditional onggi jars from Korea, dedicating substantial storage space, and constantly monitoring and maintaining the fermentations. These resources are often considered impractical for most restaurants, even in Korea. As a small, home-based restaurant, we’re able to cut down on conventional overheads like rent and wages. This allows us to invest our efforts and resources into producing traditional condiments, ensuring that our food is as authentic as it can be. CHAE stands out as the only Korean restaurant in Australia that can offer this level of authenticity and craftsmanship. It’s this commitment to tradition and quality that resonates deeply with our audience.

CHAE has gained immense popularity, with thousands vying for a reservation. What are  the challenges and rewards of running a one-table restaurant, and how do you manage to strike a balance between staying authentic to traditional Korean flavors, maintaining the restaurant's integrity and values, and catering to the expectations of the Australian audience?

Running a one-table home-based restaurant like CHAE presents unique challenges, particularly because this concept is still relatively unfamiliar. One of our main challenges was communicating with the local government to ensure our operation complied with all necessary regulations. We had to work through a long process to figure out what was required to operate a food business from our home. When we first began our operation five years ago, the pandemic added another layer of complexity, as the government’s evolving guidelines didn’t always fit with our unique model. This required constant communication and quick adaptations to stay compliant while continuing to serve our guests. Despite these challenges, the rewards are immense, especially when it comes to offering a personalized and intimate dining experience that guests can’t find anywhere else. The small-scale nature of the restaurant allows us to create an exclusive, one-of-a-kind experience that goes beyond just serving food—it’s a chance for guests to connect with the culture, the ingredients, and our personal story. The response from customers has been overwhelmingly positive, and their appreciation for the authenticity we bring to the table makes it all worthwhile.

Fermentation plays a central role in shaping the flavors of your dishes and the philosophy of your cooking. What does the process of creating fermented condiments involve, and why do you place such a strong emphasis on adopting fermentation and jangs (fermented sauces) in your cooking?

Fermentation plays a central role in shaping the flavors of my dishes, and much of what I know about creating fermented condiments comes from what I learned from my mom. I follow the traditional method of inoculating soybeans and growing the desirable bacteria, staying true to the process that has been passed down through generations. In recent years, I’ve taken it a step further by bringing Onggi from Korea, which allows us to preserve these ferments more authentically and develop deeper flavors. The process of creating fermented condiments varies depending on the type of jang (fermented sauce) I’m making, but it always begins with preparing meju—fermented soybean blocks. From there, I can make doenjang (fermented soybean paste), gochujang (fermented chili paste), and soy sauce. This method ensures that we’re able to create truly authentic flavors, which are key to Korean cuisine. I place such a strong emphasis on fermentation and jangs because they are the foundation of authentic Korean cuisine. The rich, complex flavors they develop are the essence of Korean culinary heritage. By making my own jangs, I can ensure that these flavors remain as authentic as possible. It’s a great honor and privilege to carry forward this centuries-old tradition and share it with an international audience, offering them a genuine taste of Korea’s unique culinary identity.

How have you adapted traditional Korean fermentation practices to suit the unique environmental conditions and climate of Australia? What challenges have you encountered in crafting your own traditional fermented condiments in such a different environment, and what innovations have you introduced to ensure success?

I make all the fundamental Korean jang like ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang, gochujang, gamsikcho (persimmon vinegar), fermented fruit extract, and jeotgal (salted seafood). What’s so special about these traditional condiments is that they develop their own unique and deeper flavors over time—something you just don’t get with store-bought alternatives. Each batch turns out a little different because it’s influenced by the conditions of that particular year, so every jar has its own story and character. I adhere to traditional methods for creating fermented condiments, starting with the inoculation of soybeans using wild yeast and storing them in onggi—traditional clay jars that allow the ferments to breathe. However, being in a foreign climate different from Korea’s, I’ve had to adapt these traditional methods to ensure successful fermentation. For example, the process of making traditional jangs typically begins in winter, but here in the mountains of Melbourns’ east, winter is very humid, making it difficult to air-dry and prepare meju (fermented soybean blocks) outdoors. To overcome this, I developed a system tailored to these conditions. The meju blocks I make are slightly smaller, which allows them to dry effectively and be properly inoculated before the risk of mold due to the humidity. Additionally, the process is often brought indoors to control the environment and encourage the growth of desirable bacteria. I’ve also adjusted the salt content in the brine to be slightly higher, which helps preserve the ferments in the milder Australian climate. Despite these modifications, the core methodology of preparing jang remains true to the traditional Korean process. The process involves continuous trial and error, as I keep exploring new methods to improve and ensure the success of the fermentation. The learning process never stops, and I am always refining my techniques to make sure the ferments are as authentic and successful as possible.

How do you feel about UNESCO’s recognition of Korean jang-making as an intangible cultural heritage? As a Korean chef, how do you see your work contributing to the preservation and promotion of this Korean culinary tradition in Australia and globally?

As a Korean chef, I feel immense pride and gratitude seeing Korean jang-making recognized as an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO. This recognition elevates the significance of our culinary heritage, acknowledging it as not just a part of Korean culture but as a tradition worthy of global appreciation and preservation. While the global rise of Korean cuisine, fueled by hallyu (the Korean wave), has drawn attention to modern aspects of our culture, UNESCO’s recognition highlights the depth and history behind our food traditions, ensuring they are valued and safeguarded for future generations. I feel a profound privilege to contribute to the preservation and promotion of this heritage through my work. By showcasing the art of fermentation and jang-making in a foreign context, I demonstrate that these time-honored traditions can thrive and be embraced outside Korea. At CHAE, my approach is not only to replicate but to adapt these traditional methods to the unique environment of Australia, ensuring their authenticity while making them accessible and appreciated by international audiences. This endeavor is more than just preserving a technique; it’s about fostering a deeper understanding and respect for the cultural and historical significance of Korean cuisine. I hope my work inspires others to see the value in preserving their culinary heritage and encourages more dialogue about the cultural richness embedded in traditional foods globally.

With Korean cuisine increasingly gaining global popularity, how does this trend influence your work as a chef focusing on traditional Korean culinary practices? Through CHAE, what aspects of Korean food, beyond the popularized dishes, do you aim to bring to its understanding in the global culinary landscape?

The global popularity of Korean cuisine is an exciting development, and it certainly influences my work in profound ways. While many people are becoming familiar with popular dishes like bibimbap, kimchi, and bulgogi, I believe that this growing interest provides a unique opportunity to dive deeper into the rich, diverse, and often underappreciated aspects of Korean culinary traditions. At CHAE, I aim to highlight the profound complexity and history behind Korean food, going beyond the more widely recognized dishes. One of the key areas I focus on is jang—our traditional fermented condiments, such as doenjang(soybean paste), gochujang (chili paste), and ganjang (soy sauce). These are the true backbone of Korean cuisine, adding layers of flavor that are fundamental to our cooking but are often overlooked in the global conversation. By emphasizing the process of fermentation and the intricate balance of flavors it brings, I hope to cultivate a deeper understanding of Korean food's true essence. Additionally, I aim to showcase the concept of banchan (side dishes), which is a fundamental part of Korean dining culture. These small, varied dishes embody the balance and harmony central to Korean cooking, and I believe they offer a unique experience to international guests, highlighting how food in Korea is not just about one main dish but a variety of flavors that complement and enhance each other. Through my work at CHAE, I strive to bridge the gap between the popularized aspects of Korean cuisine and the more nuanced, traditional practices that truly define it. By doing so, I hope to bring global attention to the authenticity and cultural richness of Korean food, while offering a deeper culinary experience that goes beyond the surface-level dishes people may already know.

Lastly, how do you envision the future of CHAE and your journey as a chef? How do you hope CHAE will continue to be a bridge between Korea’s culinary traditions and the wider world?

I envision CHAE continuing as a small, intimate dining experience, as that's what sets us apart and why diners are drawn to us. The personal connection and private atmosphere are central to our concept, and expanding the restaurant would risk compromising the unique charm that we've built. I want to preserve this intimate vibe because it creates meaningful moments for our guests, and that is what makes CHAE special. However, over the past five years, I’ve recognized a growing interest in traditional Korean jang (fermented condiments) in Australia. Australians have developed a genuine appreciation for Korea’s rich culinary heritage and the effort that goes into crafting these complex flavors. I believe there’s an untapped market for these condiments, and if we can effectively share the story of jang and how it can be incorporated into everyday cooking, it will resonate with a wider audience. Currently, I produce small batches of these condiments for our guests at CHAE, but my long-term vision is to scale this up. We aim to establish a small production facility to create larger batches of our authentic jangs and eventually make them available for retail. This would allow us to share Korea's culinary traditions with a broader audience, both in Australia and globally, while continuing to stay true to the authenticity of the ingredients and processes we use. Through this, I hope CHAE can continue to act as a bridge, connecting the deep-rooted traditions of Korean cuisine with the wider world, one jar of jang at a time.