Oliwia In, a Polish native having lived in Korea for over 15 years, has embraced a lifestyle few foreigners would dare to imagine—becoming a haenyeo, the legendary female divers of Korea’s Jeju Island. While these resilient women often remain unrecognised even within their own country, Oliwia's journey from Poland to Jeju, taking a dive into the haenyeo life, has made her a unique part of this age-old tradition.

Recent cultural recognitions have begun to shift the perception of haenyeo from just hardworking fisherwomen to guardians of a significant cultural heritage of Korea. Jeju Island’s haenyeo have been listed among UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2016, Korea's National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2017 and Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System in 2023. Historically, these female divers have been vital to Jeju's economy, forming a close-knit, powerful community that has thrived against the odds.The haenyeo of Jeju are celebrated for their resilience and incredible strength, honed in an environment that demands both physical and mental endurance. 

Oliwia, whose curiosity for Korean culture had sparked in her early twenties after encountering some Koreans in Poland while studying art history, eventually led her to transfer to the Korean language department in Warsaw, the capital of Poland. After just six months of studying the language, she looked for ways to go to Korea, and in 2009, she moved to Seoul to study fashion (Department of clothing environment) at Yonsei University after receiving the Korean Government Scholarship. In fell in love with Jeju Island’s culture while visiting the scenic holiday destination of Korea on her work trips. It was during that time that she first witnessed the haenyeo making a dive, and the sight left her mesmerised. But it wasn’t until February 2021, when she relocated to Jeju Island, that her initial love and fascination with Korea's rich heritage thriving in the island truly deepened.Immersed in Jeju's way of life, she found herself diving alongside the haenyeo—some of the strongest and most resilient women she had ever met in her life. “They’re like real mermaids, doing a job that pushes beyond human limits. It’s incredible to observe them up close”. “The haenyeo themselves don’t realize how extraordinary they are. For them, it’s simply a way of life.” In shared.

I first learned about the haenyeo through personal research after watching Korean dramas like Welcome to Samdalri and Our Blues, which touched on their fascinating way of life. My curiosity deepened when I came across the new documentary The Last of the Sea Women, produced by Malala Yousafzai and directed by filmmaker Sue Kim. Beyond showcasing their struggles and the challenges they face, I was particularly struck by the depiction of the younger, “modern” haenyeo, who not only continue the tradition but also use social media platforms such as YouTube to share their experiences and preserve the culture in new ways. As I delved deeper into the world of haenyeo, I discovered Oliwia In, the first non-Korean to embrace this extraordinary way of life.  Oliwia also uses her social media presence to share about haenyeo lifestyle, as well as other content about Korean culture, such as language, food and attractions. Her unique story of becoming a haenyeo piqued my interest, leading me to reach out to her for this interview.

Below are excerpts from an email interview with Oliwia from September 30 to October 22.

How did you first learn about the haenyeo culture of Jeju Island? What aspects of this culture captivated you the most and how did your fascination with it evolve over time?

After graduating from university in Korea and working at a large company, I often travelled to Jeju Island. During one of those trips, I saw a haenyeo for the first time, and she was an old grandmother who appeared to be over 80 years old. She seemed both fragile and remarkably amazing at the same time. To me, it was as if an ‘old mermaid’ was emerging from the sea. The haenyeo dive without any breathing equipment, staying underwater for impressive stretches of time. Though they could use modern diving gear, they choose to connect with nature more intimately, without any artificial aid. To me, they seemed like mystical sea creatures. That moment sparked my curiosity about haenyeo, and I began to learn more about them by visiting the Haenyeo Museum.

Before moving to Jeju, you wrote a novel titled "Koreanska Syrena" about a young haenyeo. What inspired you to write this book, and how did the writing process deepen your understanding of Jeju and haenyeo culture?

I believe it was during that trip when I first encountered haenyeo. As I learned more about them, a story began to take shape in my mind. I had always been imaginative and enjoyed making up stories that I didn’t have, but that was the first time I had thought of a specific storyline. This fantastical tale lingered in my mind for years.I always tried to find time to write the story that kept running through my thoughts. I found it interesting, so I jotted down a rough table of contents and then forgot about it for a while. One day, I decided to quit my job, and while I was praying, seeking guidance on what to do next, I received an answer to my prayers to write a book.  It was this story that motivated me to start working on the book. Since I already had an outline, I started writing "Koreanska Syrena" (English title: "Haemi") the very next day. Although it was my first time writing literature and I had never written anything before , it felt completely natural, like a fish swimming in water. I was amazed at how smoothly the writing process went.  While writing, I found myself researching more about haenyeo. Although it wasn’t a job I had personally experienced at that time, I wanted to portray the life of haenyeo as realistically as possible, while blending it with the story. Although there are many things that I couldn’t include in the book, it was the moment that led me to learn more about haenyeo culture overall.

What motivated you to relocate from Seoul to Jeju Island and become a haenyeo yourself?

Living in a big and bustling city like Seoul had burned me out and I wanted to escape to my favorite corner of the world-Jeju.After leaving the company I was working for in Seoul, I was in the process of finishing the translation of "Koreanska Syrena" from Polish to English and no longer had a reason to stay there. There was nothing to stop me from making a 360-degree change because I thought “If not now, then when?”Since I had always wanted to live on Jeju Island, I decided to move there in 2021. Initially, I had no intentions of becoming a haenyeo. I know many people think it was my dream, especially after reading my book but it wasn’t really. I wrote that I ‘aspired to be a mermaid,’ but that was more of a metaphor—something about embracing life fully, like a fish in water. I never actually thought I would end up diving into the haenyeo world. 

When I came here, I never imagined that I would get the chance to experience the life of a haenyeo, even briefly. I was physically weak, and I was afraid of the deep sea. Additionally, I already had some knowledge about haenyeo and knew how challenging their lives were. But when I started building a new life on the island, learning Jeju’s dialect was something I was interested in, and that’s when I stumbled into a folk song class. There, I met Auntie Ok-re, the head of a local haenyeo branch. She invited me to come watch them in action, and though I wasn’t initially interested in diving myself, I couldn’t resist the chance to see these women up close. Over time, I my deep interest in their culture led me to cross paths with both experienced and newcomer haenyeo. Through these interactions, I gained deeper insights into their diverse reasons for choosing this path and realised that not all of them became haenyeo out of a love for the sea.Their stories were fascinating, and I started thinking, “Could I do this?” One young haenyeo I met had been terrified of fish and was the worst in her class, but now she’s one of the best. Hearing her story planted a seed in my mind that maybe, just maybe, a land mermaid like me could become a real one. Then came a sea festival in the town of Seogwipo where Auntie Ok-re jokingly introduced me as her haenyeo student to everyone. It was just a casual comment, but it made me start to imagine myself in that role. I kept spending time with these incredible women, listening to their stories, and eventually, I couldn’t shake the thought. Maybe I could do this. Maybe I should try. Despite all my fears, meeting so many haenyeo ignited a growing sense of respect and ambition in me. I had always wanted to contribute to preserving and revitalizing haenyeo culture, and I thought that by becoming a haenyeo myself, I could help spread awareness of this tradition as a foreign haenyeo. This motivation led me to apply to the Beophwan Haenyeo School in Seogwipo, on Jeju Island's southern coast.

Can you describe your personal experience and training process at Beophwan Haenyeo School to be a foreign haenyeo? 

There is no special treatment just because you're a foreigner. The most important thing to becoming a haenyeo is to fully understand haenyeo culture and do your best within that community. This part is not easy even for Koreans. Most of the students at Beophwan Haenyeo School are not native Jeju people but women from the mainland, referred to as "yukji saram" here. As a result, adapting to Jeju culture and language is challenging. Some arrived with romanticized ideas about being a haenyeo, influenced by the media or simply driven by a love for the ocean. They'd say things like, 'I love the ocean,' 'I’ve done free diving,' or 'I thought I could earn a lot by becoming a haenyeo.' However, the harsh reality of the physically demanding work soon dispels these fantasies. Still, even after their illusions are shattered, some choose to continue on the path to becoming a haenyeo. Unlike earlier generations, who were informally trained by family members, today's haenyeo schools focus on safety. In the past, women learned diving and fishing naturally from their families, with survival as their main goal and little formal safety training but now, the training is more safety-focused, incorporating theoretical knowledge from free diving. While diving, underwater work, and safety training are important, those alone don't make you a haenyeo.  Ultimately, after graduating from school, what matters most is how well you can get along with the haenyeo "samchon" (a term used for mentor in Jeju) in the fishing village community after graduating from school.

 Can you walk us through a typical day in the life of a haenyeo?

The daily routine of a haenyeo varies depending on the fishing village association. On days when muljil (diving activities without equipment to obtain seafood) is scheduled, haenyeo arrive early to prepare their equipment and check whether it's safe to enter the sea (weather conditions). The haenyeo leader will inform them if diving is possible. The muljil usually lasts about 5 hours, though those who are physically weaker may come out earlier. After finishing, they sort the harvested seafood based on the purpose and, if necessary, process it. For example, in summer, when sea urchins are caught, they immediately crack them open to extract the roe. The type of work varies slightly depending on the season and the seafood caught. Some haenyeo who run personal businesses or work in restaurants may head to work after diving, but typically, they are too exhausted and prefer to eat something simple and rest. Since muljil happens for several consecutive days, maintaining good physical condition is essential.

As a trainee, how have the local haenyeo of Jungmun Fishing Village welcomed you and responded to your participation in their community?

It's a bit uncertain to even say that I am currently a trainee. Until just before summer, I had hopes of continuing, but my worsening rhinitis has made diving difficult. Additionally, the sea area assigned to our fishing village is dangerous and deep, making it a challenging environment for a beginner like me to adapt to, even if my respiratory condition were better. Despite this, whenever I go to the fishing village, the haenyeo "samchons" always welcome me warmly knowing my interest in the haenyeo culture. When restaurant guests visit, they even refer to me as “our maknae (youngest)”.

What have been some of the biggest challenges you have faced while adapting to the rigorous lifestyle of a haenyeo, and how do you balance your diving duties with your other tasks? Also, how do you keep your personal beliefs and customs in harmony with the cultural rites and traditions of the haenyeo community?

These days, it's difficult to make a living solely as a haenyeo. Many younger haenyeo balance other jobs alongside it, and there are quite many freelancers. Some fishing village associations understand this and are flexible, while others believe that if you want to be a haenyeo, you should focus on that alone, saying that ‘a haenyeo must be a haenyeo’. The same goes for beliefs. While some fishing village associations embrace individual beliefs, others expect you to fully accept and participate in the traditional haenyeo culture as it is. Being a foreigner and a newcomer in terms of experience as a Haenyeo, I approach my interactions with the community with great care and deep respect. I make every possible effort to integrate into and respect their culture, and in turn, they make an effort to understand me as well.

How are the significant challenges that haenyeo face today impacting the preservation of this cultural heritage and the haenyeo community as a whole?

Efforts are indeed being made to preserve haenyeo culture, and the significance of the haenyeo profession is gaining international recognition. However, the biggest challenge seems to be that the profession does not appeal to young women. In today’s difficult economic climate, few are inclined to pursue a job that is hard to sustain financially. Misconceptions about the income potential of haenyeo continue, stemming from memories of a time when the sea was abundant. There's a belief among masses that haenyeo make a lot of money, but that's no longer the case. Environmental changes and unpredictable weather have greatly reduced the number of days we can dive.Due to the rising water temperatures, seafood is not as abundantly available as before, and the physically demanding nature of the job makes it less attractive to many. Consequently, not many people are considering a job as a haenyeo. However, in the long run, it is a profession that can be pursued for a very long time and is well worth doing if it can be done in parallel with other jobs.I believe it is a valuable job that contributes to preserving an important part of Korean culture and is worth pursuing.

How do you envision the role of haenyeo evolving to adapt to modern lifestyles and contemporary economic pressures in the future? What do you believe are the necessary approaches and changes to make the haenyeo profession economically viable for younger generations, raise awareness among them and  sustain the haenyeo culture?

I believe that haenyeo culture also needs to change in certain aspects. In the past, becoming a haenyeo wasn't a choice about receiving safety training or graduating from haenyeo school; rather, it was a matter of following in the footsteps of a mother haenyeo for the daughter to become a haenyeo, serving as a means of survival in the difficult and challenging environment of Jeju Island. Therefore, even if it is rooted in tradition, there is a need to upgrade diving equipment. For instance, using masks and goggles that allow for performing the necessary skill of ‘equalisation’ during deep dives is essential, but some fishing village associations do not permit such modern equipment in the name of preserving tradition. Increasing recognition and pride in the haenyeo could be crucial in encouraging more young people to consider this unique profession. Additionally, Korea's rising interest in free diving and surfing might help attract newcomers who share a deep love for the ocean to the haenyeo culture. Additionally, creating an environment where young people can balance other work with being a haenyeo would make the profession more attractive to them. There is no other job quite like being a haenyeo in terms of being close in proximity to nature. Of course, while the primary task is diving to collect seafood, experiencing the beauty of the sea and surrounding nature is one of the greatest advantages of this profession.

As a foreign haenyeo, what role do you think you are playing in promoting and preserving haenyeo culture? What has been the most rewarding moment for you, and what plans do you have for continuing to promote and preserve haenyeo culture both locally and internationally in the future?

This is a difficult question to answer at the moment. Initially, I had no intention of becoming a haenyeo, but since I valued it as an important part of Korean culture, I had a strong desire to promote it through literature. After coming to Jeju and meeting haenyeo, my dream of becoming one grew, and I took on the difficult challenge, though it wasn’t easy to continue the haenyeo lifestyle after my internship ended. In fact, I’m still wondering how I can further promote haenyeo culture if I don’t become a haenyeo myself. I want to raise awareness of haenyeo through my book ‘Haemi’, which has been published in both Polish and English to promote haenyeo culture worldwide. Despite their recognition as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the haenyeo tradition is at risk of disappearing as many divers are rapidly ageing. If more people, including foreigners, take an interest in the haenyeo, there might be more individuals inspired to become one.  Last year, I wrote a picture book about haenyeo and ocean conservation. Although I hoped to publish it this year, I haven't decided on a publisher yet. My goal remains to continue promoting haenyeo culture, whether through literature or other means. 

What advice would you give to young people who are interested in becoming haenyeo, especially those from outside of Jeju? What realistic expectations should they have, and how should they prepare for this path?

I would advise people to thoroughly understand the reality before pursuing this path. Becoming a haenyeo can be a beautiful dream, but it could also end in disappointment. That's why I recommend taking an interest in Jeju's culture and haenyeo culture beforehand, and considering the practical aspects before making a decision. Building relationships with the fishing village association in advance is also a good approach. While haenyeo samchon may speak in a rough manner, they are warm-hearted people. If you open your heart, theirs will open too. Isn’t this what human relationships are about? If you begin with love and sincerity, the end will also be beautiful.